Brand of Ball U like, used before, are going to use, and why
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How about track balls
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Track Balls? Hmmm....Think i still got an ENFORCER somewhere in my house not drilled yet... So can't tell much...
My aim now is a Columbia300 WICKED!
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Sorry to put my question here but since most of you own a couple of balls, I wish to know your opinion of a ball with great length and strong recovery. And your drilling layout ie. pin in/out if possible.
I need a ball with a greater length than my Cuda/C 2000.
Thanks! -
I guess everyone's just waiting for someone else to post this (like how everyone waits for somebody else to press the bell on a bus):
Clown, we'll have to know details before anyone can answer.
What type of lanes you play, conditioning, your intended line, ballspeed, axis tilt, axis rotation, et cetera... You sound like you know a thing or two, so you should have no problems describing to us the above. -
Sorry guess I mislead you guys with that post.
I mean to ask what's the ball you guys used for a drier conditions and how its layout is like?
I am currently using only one ball for throughout my game including the stubborn 10. Not to boast, but I am able to change my axis, ball speed and revs accordingly. But recently, I am rather disturbed as I am unable to get my ball further down the lane where I want.
For your information, my ball speed and footwork had always been very fast and now in the process of slowing things down.
I need to know what is the norm ball and drilling you guys are using for fried heads and dried midlane.
Thanks I apprieciate. -
i also using one ball for all purposes oni!
its not easy, but i break my wrist for pin 4,7,8.....
although now i have a White Dot to do the job....soon to debut for me.
err..maybe can find higher Rg ball.
i think its made for more length...dunno all these things ley.
but if u slow down ur approach, wont that ultimately slow down ur ball speed in the end as well??
as for drilling and layout, u have to ask harmie and prata! I'm afraid most of us here know far too less than them....(in other words, they know far more than most of us here) -
Oh okie!
I am actually not refering to pin 10 sparing (right hander)
But for lanes that dry that your stirke ball can't even make it into the pocket and crosses over. -
clown, for moi, pearlised reactive.
or
unorthodoxly, a lighter ball, so can throw faster and further to get past the dries. hohoho!! of course the experts like the ians, the prats and others will have more comprehensive, detail and logical suggestions.
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Dry lanes...............hmm....what kind of dry lanes?
1)28 feet light oil with clean backend?
OR
2)reverse block which doesn't really have any oil in the lane?
OR
3)After oiling and stripping the backend very dry kind of condition?
Each of the above require a different type of game approach, so i would say there is no such thing as a ball or drilling that fits dry lanes, cos there are different types of dry lanes!
All i could say is that the above 3 dry lanes have a similiar characteristics, ie u need to let the ball skid thru the heads. How much to skid depends on the oiling conditions. But if the ball starts to roll before it hits the mid lane, chances are u can start sparing pin 7(for right-handers) whilst playing outside line. -
Ehhhh be a semi spinner like me, then dryer lanes no problem. Then go home and cry on wetter lanes. Or learn to bowl like Ian.Originally posted by clown:Sorry guess I mislead you guys with that post.
I mean to ask what's the ball you guys used for a drier conditions and how its layout is like?
I am currently using only one ball for throughout my game including the stubborn 10. Not to boast, but I am able to change my axis, ball speed and revs accordingly. But recently, I am rather disturbed as I am unable to get my ball further down the lane where I want.
For your information, my ball speed and footwork had always been very fast and now in the process of slowing things down.
I need to know what is the norm ball and drilling you guys are using for fried heads and dried midlane.
Thanks I apprieciate.
Anyway, I use a 4 x 4 layout for my dryer lanes on a pearlised reactive coverstock ball. This is a stacked layout with a further pin.
The further pin distance from PAP allows the ball to take a longer time to roll, the pearlised cover assists in the skid as well. I chose a stacked layout for a more aggressive snap at the back (compared to an arc or roll layout). But keep the speed up on this drilling otherwise you'll visit Tom/CH's pocket more often than your own.
Lastly, I chose to have the pin under the ring finger rather than above it, because I spin it more than most semi-rollers. So I get a little inherent skid compared to most of the others here. Except Jae and Hanz, of course. -
When the lanes get too dry, i try to switch balls. Or rather, i want to switch balls, but i can't, because the other options are: (1)a more aggressive chaos, (2)a pancake blue dot, and (3)a urethane shadow i always leave at home. So... i switch lines. Go al the way out to first 5 boards, or shift in for a wider arc.
And when THAT isn't enough, i stop playing. No lah, i try to get more length by speeding up the footwork, and thinking "project... project...project the damn ball...". Helps to use a further target.
Last resort: field promote the plastic to a strike ball, or play a straight (i.e. *goong goong*) shot with the particle. More biased towards the goong goong shot. -
P1
The "expert" here on lane conditions here is probably Deamon. I think Prataman would agree with me. Deamon's the Ãœber-player in this forum for adjustments.
Know those macho, predator-like movies?? There's always an experienced jungle dude who can feel enemies approaching just by smelling them in the wind? Deamon's like that. The man can probably tell you what brand of lane conditioner they used by licking the lanes. Hahaha.
I agree with Deamon about his assessment in "dry" lane differences. I have different balls for a variety of such fried lanes. But as those of you who know me know, I often carry only two balls due to plain ol' laziness. So most of the time I just keep my wrist flat, my follow-through long and low, and project.
If I'm really, really desperate, then I just throw straight to the 1-3 pocket. But that's only if i need the scores.
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Oh, I don't know about that..... I could probably read and adjust to the lanes too... only problem is, usually by then it's already game 5 and league's already long over.... so... yeah, Deamon's the one you'd want to look up to for quick adjustments and a rundown on lane conditions.Originally posted by harmzuay:P1
The "expert" here on lane conditions here is probably Deamon. I think Prataman would agree with me. Deamon's the Ãœber-player in this forum for adjustments.
Know those macho, predator-like movies?? There's always an experienced jungle dude who can feel enemies approaching just by smelling them in the wind? Deamon's like that. The man can probably tell you what brand of lane conditioner they used by licking the lanes. Hahaha.
I agree with Deamon about his assessment in "dry" lane differences. I have different balls for a variety of such fried lanes. But as those of you who know me know, I often carry only two balls due to plain ol' laziness. So most of the time I just keep my wrist flat, my follow-through long and low, and project.
If I'm really, really desperate, then I just throw straight to the 1-3 pocket. But that's only if i need the scores.
I'm not sure I advise licking the lanes, and it's not the taste I'm particularly worried about... I'm just not sure bowling would be the prior thing on his mind when he's puking and on the way to hospital after doing a lanelicking. -
So from the posts, I guess you guys do not delibrately get a ball for lanes that had broken down due to play, ie. carrydown and drying up.
I on the other hand thought of just changing ball rather than changing lines as it would be easlier to adapt. I am more comfortable in play my usual same line and target and is often more consistent.
I usually play around 7-10 boards. Let it go at around the same area as well. Some may call it hitting up the lanes. But this often cause a solid 10.
Anyway, thanks for the advice -
oh, that's what happened to me in a katong league session when the oiling pattern has not changed yet. If i play outside line, it crosses over. if i play inside line, it falls short of the pocket.
When that happens, I played the outside line, speed up my ball so that it goes higher on the pocket or around there. This is usually not consistent.
What I can do though is shift right (i'm leftie) 2~3 boards, and target 1 board or so, depending on the lane condition, switch to my ShockZone (skid-snap) ball and throw at my initial speed(relatively slow). As the ball is made for more length, I could have it skid further down, before its snaps and hook. By shifting slightly inside, I can get slightly more oil and it will skid further.
However, before I even get to try this line again, the oiling pattern has since been changed, so I cannot work out my theory. It did work for 2 games of fun bowling after league session though... -
actually, mr clown, i had also been thinking abt this problem, cause my bowling balls have covers too strong (for me) on drier lanes, and i love to play outside (<5 boards), hence they tend to roll very early.
i have thought of 2 remedies, i.e. get a pearlise reactive, to allow the ball to go further and, learn to play deeper & make it my 2nd love (1st is outside), cos me no master of lane adjustment like the deamon.
or u can do water training like on TV. Ballet dancers train at the beach with water up to waist level, can train strength. bowlers can do 4-5 step approaches in neck height water. ........just joking.
P.S.: why people call it "lane adjustment"? it's the line we are adjusting!! -
lanes breaking down is the bane of all the bigger hook players around. there is no one true method to correct all that, and pple tend to use the following
1) shift lines.
2) change ball
3) change release
4) stop bowling go home, pray for better lanes next time.
1) versatility in lines must be there. u like to play deep in? better learn how to handle sending the ball down as well. to like to point ur shot towards the pocket? sending out the ball may save u one day.
2) change of ball whenever lanes dry up, breakdown, watever. u knwo ur balls best and u know wat they can do. but u also better have a good knowledge of the lane conditions aka, lane reading.
3)cupping to much? flicking too much? Lanes too dry for that? simple, use a break wrists release. lanes too oily? ball skids into the pocket? slow down the ball speed ( backswing, slower steps blah blah)
4) take out ur car keys, do ur usual routinue, get into bed, hope u have someone beside u to hug. cry ur eyes out about the unfairness of the world, wakeup red eyed, and prepare to cry every week. ur gal might leave u though after awhile, to find someone wif more backbone.
thats it. all i can tink of in my weakened SARS condition. -
To those playing in katong league, do u find that week in week out, there are no same lane conditions? What i mean is that week 2 lane condition is not the same as week 3. But week 2 lane condition might be the same for week 4 or maybe 5.Originally posted by Player1:oh, that's what happened to me in a katong league session when the oiling pattern has not changed yet. If i play outside line, it crosses over. if i play inside line, it falls short of the pocket.
When that happens, I played the outside line, speed up my ball so that it goes higher on the pocket or around there. This is usually not consistent.
What I can do though is shift right (i'm leftie) 2~3 boards, and target 1 board or so, depending on the lane condition, switch to my ShockZone (skid-snap) ball and throw at my initial speed(relatively slow). As the ball is made for more length, I could have it skid further down, before its snaps and hook. By shifting slightly inside, I can get slightly more oil and it will skid further.
However, before I even get to try this line again, the oiling pattern has since been changed, so I cannot work out my theory. It did work for 2 games of fun bowling after league session though...
As far as i know, they employ 2 oiling conditions. Maybe 3, i not so sure. BUt the 2 i face in earlier leagues(and struggling with them, of course) is one that they clean and strip the lanes an hour before league starts. So u get a very nice and snappy backend.
The other lane condition is pretty unplayable for most styles. They put long and heavy oil in the middle. In such cases, go to the approach and see the lanes. If i'm not wrong, the 1st 3 boards are totally dry. So while most ppl may think oil is heavy and need to play deeper in, playing 3-5 boards is even a better option. and becos of the long oil after 5th boards, the ball will be guided into the pocket. Speed must be slow of course.
That's what i have observed after playing in about 5weeks of league.In both cases mentioned above, 2nd arrow doesn't seem to help carry into pocket.
I not too sure if there's a 3rd condition for katong league.Prata, what do u think?
haha harmy....me dun eat the conditioner, i feel it. hehe -
Originally posted by clown:So from the posts, I guess you guys do not delibrately get a ball for lanes that had broken down due to play, ie. carrydown and drying up.
I on the other hand thought of just changing ball rather than changing lines as it would be easlier to adapt. I am more comfortable in play my usual same line and target and is often more consistent.
I usually play around 7-10 boards. Let it go at around the same area as well. Some may call it hitting up the lanes. But this often cause a solid 10.
Most ppl would bring probably 2 or 3 balls. So sometimes its really hard to bring down 1 ball just to pinpoint 1 lane condition . I'm also lazy at times, so hardly bring down my spare ball for pin10.
But generally, most i would say bring down a peralised and dull ball. So in the event of lane changes or become drier, the pearl ball will come into use. The peralised ball is only to give u more skid thru the lanes. Ultimately, the bolwer will still have to move ard to find oil to skid the ball.
Lastly, how a ball hook and strikes depends on the friction between
the ball surface and surface of the backend.Hence we not only have to find an oil line, but an area in the backend where the friction allows the ball to have pin carry, aka pin action.
That's the tough part abt hook ball bowling
Anyway, thanks for the advice -
issit?
i thought prata or who said something about reverse christmas tree..is that it?
it felt like centre drier, outside damn oily. -
As of 2 weeks ago, Silverbowl just got themselves a new Kegel oiling machine. We should be seeing more consistent patterns from here on in.... one that doesn't leak conditioner in the backends...Originally posted by Player1:issit?
i thought prata or who said something about reverse christmas tree..is that it?
it felt like centre drier, outside damn oily.
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Pirhana Red!!!