____DESSERT INGREDIENTS________
The rustic combination of palm sugar, rice flour and coconut formed the basis of most desserts in Siam. Although these desserts may have had very limited ingrediÂents, their quality and vibrant freshness lent them surprising dimensions of flavour, belying their simplicity. The palm sugar would have been freshly boiled sap  sweet, but slightly bitter from impurities. The rice flour would have been freshly milled and soaked overnight to remove any excess starch; during the tropical night, the starch would slightly ferment. Fresh grated coconut would have been squeezed without the addition of water, to make an incomparably luscious cream.
PANDANUS LEAVES
These blade-like leaves release their resinous flavour only on heating. They can be boiled whole - although they are usually knotted to make them easier to remove  in syrups and other desserts. However, they should only be simmered briefly, for if stewed they impart an oily, sallow quality. Pandanus leaves are also used to wrap or package small sweetmeats, and occasionally the leaves are blended with a little water to colour and perfume pastries.
SAFFRON
Although not a traditional Thai flavouring, I find saffron adds depth to syrups and a golden hue to egg desserts that can normally be obtained only by using duck eggs.
COCONUT
The coconut is indispensable in making Thai desserts, and it is used in all stagesof development - young, intermediate and old - and even the husk is employed. The most ancient recipes call for grated coconut, rather than extracted cream. The best coconut to use is one that is not too old, where the flesh has developed but is not as firm or hard as mature coconut. It has a crunchy yet soft texture, and a rich, sweet taste. However, the best coconut cream is made from old, 'dry* coconuts; it is essential to peel the brown skin to obtain a pristinely white cream. Ideally, coconut cream for desserts should be extracted from coconut alone, without adding water to dissolve it in, but it takes a massive amount of strength to wring out the cream this way. Frankly, I have never been able to achieve this successfully. Instead, aim to extract the cream for desserts using a minimal amount of water - about 1 cup to 2 cups grated coconut  following the method given on page 148. This will yield a heavy, thick cream. Then wait for 30 minutes or so to allow the cream to rise to the top and skim off this even more concentrated cream. Coconut cream intended for desserts is immeasurably improved by being prepared with perfumed water, or smoked and perfumed water. The result is a cream of incomÂparable quality and resonance  fresh, rich, luscious, slightly resinous and aromatic. Although it is possible to smoke and perfume the cream after it has been made, it does not taste the same, being rawer in taste and not as deep. After the coconut cream has risen to the top of the bowl and been removed, what remains is coconut milk, which can be used to poach fruit. If more is needed, simply mix the squeezed coconut flesh with additional water and extract again. Although a small amount of cream will be produced, the result will be mostly milk. When 'cracked' or separated coconut cream is allowed to cool, the cream separates into the oil and solids. The oil is used to deep-fry peanuts, shalÂlots, lotus seeds and bananas. It is a heavy oil which imparts a sharp, rather peppery flavour, and I like to cut it with some good flavourless vegetable oil. Undiluted, a litÂtle can be smeared in moulds to prevent desserts sticking to them. The oil lasts indefinitely and, if strained, can be re-used many times. The residue that remains after the clear oil is removed from separated cream is coconut solids or curds, which are used to give body and moisture to some desserts.
SALT
This is used in many desserts to varying degrees, mostly in minuscule amounts. Salt draws out the flavour of the other ingredients and has the effect of countering extremes of taste, tempering sweetness and reducing the unctuousness of coconut cream. Sometimes it is used as a strong flavour in itself. Salt can come as a surprise to the unsuspecting, and is an acquired taste in desserts; it may initially have been employed as a preservative.
SUGAR
Often sugar - of whatever kind - to be used in desserts is perfumed with flowers overnight before use the next day; the elusive perfume dissipates after a day or so. In Thailand, white sugar is produced by simmering and clarifying sugar cane with hydrolysed lime water. This results in a clean, but not always ultra-purified, sugar that is normally used to make syrups. For those who do not wish to clarify their own, either castor (superfine) or regular granulated sugar can be used. Moist, soft, honey-golden granules of Thai palm sugar are indisÂpensable when making these desserts. Different grades are used for different desserts as each imparts a distinct colour and flavour. The best quality comes from Phetchaburi, a renowned centre of dessert-making. When fresh, palm sugar is ambrosial, but regrettably it is often adulterated with cheaper cane sugar. AccomÂplished Thai dessert chef Tanongsak Yordwai suggests that one way to invigorate it is to dissolve it in a little mixed coconut cream and milk, then simmer, stirring regÂularly to prevent scorching and promote its re-crystallisation. I think some young coconut water with a few pandanus leaves would also be an excellent liquid to use for this purpose. Remember, however, that sugar treated in this way will be denser and wetter than just-bought sugar, so reduce any other liquids in the recipe accordÂingly. Palm sugar treated like this can also ferment, so make only as required. Coconut sugar shares many properties with palm sugar, although the aroma is creamier. Once, many desserts specified coconut sugar in their ingrediÂents, but this is now rare.
SUGAR SYRUP
Originally a basic syrup was made by stirring - traditionally with a few folded panÂdanus leaves  sugar with cold water until it had dissolved. This takes little time if palm sugar is used, especially if the hands are employed, but slightly longer with white sugar. Now, more often sugar syrup is made by simmering white sugar (rarely palm sugar) in perfumed water. The simmering clarifies the sugar, giving the resulÂtant syrup an alluring sheen. Once the sugar has dissolved, the syrup is strained. Sometimes the syrup is simmered with crushed eggshells and egg whites to further clarify it and capture any impurities that tend to lurk in the not-so-refmed Thai white sugar. The syrup is allowed to cool slightly before the coaguÂlated egg whites and shells are carefully lifted from the liquid. Then it is strained through several layers of damp muslin or a few times through a very fine sieve. This process endows the syrup with a greater lustre and suppleness. Normally the proportions are 1 part sugar to 1 part water, by volÂume or weight, but this proportion, and thus the density of the syrup, is very much a matter of personal choice. Some prefer lighter syrups made with 1 part sugar to 2 parts water; others like their syrup a little denser. Generally it is of little imporÂtance if the syrup is to be used to finish dishes or macerate fruit. However, when a dessert calls for an item to be poached or simmered in a syrup, it is imperative that the syrup is of the correct density. If palm sugar or coconut sugar is dissolved in water to make a syrup, be careful, for it will scorch and taint if simmered too long.
MALTOSE
This can be added as a safeguard when making concentrated sugar syrups and thick palm sugar candies, as its chemical composition retards crystallisation. It retains its distinctive taste when used with white sugar, but becomes indistinguishable when combined with palm sugar. Maltose also softens caramels and candies, helping them to remain pliable once cool.