Winnie Yeung hits up the capital of the Philippines
Admit it—Manila has never been high on the list of Asian cities to visit. But with more money pouring into the city, there’s suddenly an abundance of things to see and do. Here are some of our top finds.
Wining and Dining
Filipino Food
With a new generation of overseas-trained chefs returning to their homeland, the restaurant scene in Manila is booming. Rolando Laudico is a young chef who hopes to bring his national cuisine into the international arena with his restaurant, Bistro Filipino (Net Two Building, 3rd Avenue, The Fort, 856-0634). Take the prawn taramind bisque, for example. Many think that bisque is a western dish, but actually, it’s modernized from “sinigang,” the Philippines’ version of tom yum soup. Made with seafood, coconut milk and tamarind (which contributes to its sourness), the soup is traditionally served in a big bowl during a family meal. But Chef Laudico serves it in a martini glass—the sinigang is made into a jelly at the bottom with hot lemongrass and coconut foam on top. You stir the jelly and foam up at the same time to get the perfect flavor and texture.
Japanese Eats
You might not know it, but Japan imports a lot of fish from the Philippines to meet the huge demand back home, which of course means affordable and deliciously fresh sashimi abounds in the capital city. John and Yoko (2/F, Greenbelt 5, 729-8698) is a hugely popular contemporary Japanese eatery in the high-end mall Greenbelt (more on that later). We recommend the huge, delicious platter called “We Found Nemo” which has generous portions of four types of sashimi and three types of creative sushi rolls.
Vintage Beers
Curious as it may sound (the fresher the beer, the better, right?), “vintage beer” is readily available in Manila. You probably haven’t heard of it before, because it’s not exactly cost-effective—it’s brewed like normal beer before going through fermentation again in hardened bottles, stoppered with champagne corks. According to beer importer Denny Wang, who owns Yats Wine Cellar (3003C East Tower, Philippines Stock Exchange Center, Ortigas, 633-1566, www.yatswinecellars.com), five years fermentation is needed for a beer to achieve complexity of taste. He even said we could pair it with food. We tried the 2003 Maudite from Canada—we wouldn’t say it has a complex flavor but it certainly has a better aftertaste than “fresh” beer and a higher alcohol content to boot. We liked it, but it was quite expensive, so we probably wouldn’t wash it down like San Miguel. The real clients are, in fact, gamblers who win big in their casinos.
Art and Culture
A must-do in Manila is joining a historical tour with Carlos Celdran. He runs a morning tour around Intramuros, the walled city built 400 years ago during the Spanish occupation. Unfortunately, there’s little left inside those walls due to the bombings of World War II. But the real highlight is Celdran’s personalized (and highly animated) tour. For just S$27 (two hours, book at celdrantours.blogspot.com or through The Peninsula if you stay there), you can enjoy his one-man show as he colorfully tells the country’s 400-year history with props and costumes. The San Agustin Church—the only unharmed structure remaining in the walled city—is also not to be missed. At first glance, it looks like a European-style House of God. But look closer: All the “sculptures” and “carvings” on the ceiling are actually just drawings, making clever use of shading to leave them looking like actual, three-dimensional sculptures—the Europeans call it “trompe l’oeil.” “That’s what Filipino style is—decorate anything to death,” says Celdran.
Meanwhile, Pasay City, despite being an area rife with squatters and poorly designed buildings, is home to a vibrant art and design compound. Built as an estate for expats back in the 1950s, the compound has more than a dozen retro American-style bungalows shaded by trees. Albert Avellana opened the Avellana Art Gallery (House A-19, 2680 F.B. Harrison St., 833-8357) in one of these houses. “The décor creates a nice juxtaposition,” he says.
Shopping
With money pouring into the capital, it’s no surprise that high-end malls like Greenbelt at Makati (Ayala Center, Makati City 1224, 817-5015) have sprung up. It’s as high-class and stylish as one can get—even by Singapore standards. The mall is a 1.3-million-square-foot retail complex, with shops ranging from the biggest brands to inexpensive local labels. One shop we loved was Religioso (2/F, Greenbelt 5, 729-9061), a local fashion brand that has avant-garde but highly wearable dresses. A sci-fi-inspired dress is only around S$100.
Spas
Who doesn’t love a bargainous spa when they go on holiday? Our favorite in Manila was the Sanctuario Spa (1829 Jorge Bocobo St., 450-1127), which is located in a bungalow in the Bohemian area at Malate. For just S$67, you get the two-hour Banahaw Mystique, which is a package of traditional Filipino healing rituals. It starts off with an herbal steam, then an Albularyo seven-herbs bath to soothe aches, followed by Bentosa cupping (similar to the Chinese variety) and finally ends with a strong Hilot massage. The bungalow itself might be too local for lovers of luxury, but it’s certainly relaxing, unpretentious, and actually helps to alleviate travel fatigue.
Alternatively, try out the Chi Spa at Edsa Shangri-la (1 Garden Way, Ortigas Centre, 633-8888). It’s pure indulgence. We tried the exclusive two-hour Himalayan Tsangpo Ritual (S$220). The treatment is done at a decked-out spa suite and starts with a Tethys sea salt scrub to detoxify the body and Himalayan red mountain mud on a heated plinth to rejuvenate your skin. A head and scalp massage completes the treatment. With the treatment and the room (and the fab ginger tea they serve), we’d say it’s a good soul-cleansing routine—especially after the excesses of the holiday. -
Essentials
Dialing code: +63-2
Currency: S$1=PhP30
Getting There
Philippine Airlines flies to Manila from Singapore several times a day. Fares start from S$188 return (tax not included).
Reservations: Philippine Airlines, Singapore Ticket Office, #10-02 Parklane Shopping Mall, 35 Selegie Rd., 6336-1611 or www.philippineairlines.com.
Staying There
The Peninsula Manila is one of the first big luxury hotels in the country, and while the ’70s retro exterior tells its history, the interior is classical luxury. The newly-renovated Makati Tower has spacious rooms overlooking the buzz of Makati. Modern amenities include a flat-screen TV, free broadband access, fax machines and a two-line phone. It is also just five minutes away from the two major mega malls: Glorietta and Greenbelt. The Peninsula Manila, corner of Ayala and Makati Avenues, 887-2888, www.peninsula.com. -i-s mag