Guitar FAQS
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An electric guitar definition...
The Bottom Line A guitar that requires an electric based system in order to be heard.
What is an electric guitar? Yikes, what sort of question is that? Okay, I'll start with a broad definition, and narrow it down as I progress.
A guitar is a 6 string, fretted instrument. Variations include 7 string and 12 string varieties.
An "electric" guitar is one that uses some sort of electronic amplification process.
This could be as simple as installing a microphone into an acoustic guitar. That, technically, is an electric guitar of sorts. In fact, the very first electric guitars in the 1940s were arch-top jazz guitars with a microphone and speaker system.
Once the electronics became somewhat refined, it no longer became necessary for the guitar to produce sound on its own. So, the guitar no longer needed to resonate (bounce the sound around inside a big cavity to amplify the sound to the point folks could hear it.)
At this point, you had truly "electric" guitars because they needed amplification in order to be heard. Guitars that could be used either with or without amplification are generally referred to as "acoustic / electric".
A guitar has one or more microphones attached to it called "pickups". Where you place the pickup, and how you design the pickup will determine what sort of sound you will get from it. The signal passes through some potentiometers ( "pots" ) through an output jack, a cable, and to an amplifier that amplifies the sound. A pickup is still a microphone, and when we were kids, my friends and I used to put our faces down near the pickups and scream into them to hear what would come out the other end.
Strangely, two of the earliest electric guitar designs are also the most popular, today. Les Paul was a fellow working for Epiphone when he shaved down a 4 x 4 " piece of wood, attached a fretboard, and attached some purely ornamental pieces of wood to the top and bottom to give the guitar a "body". When he first approached Gibson, legend tells, they said they had no interest in a "Broomstick with pickups".
Eventually, they relented, and gave the "solidbody" electric guitar a chance. The resulting model, the "Les Paul" is one of the most used, and most readily identified guitars available.
The other innovator was a fellow named Leo Fender, who bolted a neck onto a contoured body. Leo Fender's success is what drove Gibson to give the green-light to the Les Paul, if rumor is to be believed.
In the years since the 1940s, literally hundreds of manufacturers have made variations of the electric guitar.
Today's electric guitar has several components:
1. Generally, they have six strings. (Again, 7 and 12 string models are not unheard of.)
2. They have tuning pegs at the top, which are used to adjust the tension of the string.
3. They have a fretboard, consisting of maple, ebony, or rosewood, with metal "frets" or wires inserted into the wood.
4. They have one or more pickups.
5. They have some sort of bridge which is the last resonating point for the strings.
6. Some have a "tremolo" system, whereby strings can be loosened via the manipulation of a mechanical arm.
Pickups are generally one of three categories:
1. Single coil (common in Strats and Telecasters): so named because they consist of one set of poles around which copper wire is wrapped.
2. Dual coil ("humbucker", common in Gibsons and many other manufacturers): so named because there are two sets of poles and two coils of copper wire.
3. Active: these are either single or dual coil pickups which use specialized electronics to allow the pickup to get more of the sound of the strings, and less of the sound of everything else. Generally, you can identify these active systems because they require a battery.
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Do they even make these things anymore?
The Bottom Line Classical guitars are the most affordable type of guitar and easy to play. If you want one, you'll be pleased with what's available.
Picking a classical guitar is difficult. For one thing, they're rare. You donÂ’t see row upon row of them at your local music store. Not quite as bad as finding a flamenco guitar, but it isn't like getting a Strat from your local store.
Classical guitars do not come with truss rods. Their string bridge is not adjustable. Basically, the way you buy it is the way it'll play. I've bought many an electric guitar knowing that it played badly, but all it needed was a setup by my guitar tech.
With classical guitars, no such luck. If it plays badly, only very minor adjustments are possible. So, its entirely likely that it could play badly forever.
Most classical guitars are set up for medium tension nylon strings. Make sure that the strings on the guitar when you test drive it are the ones you want to play, eventually. If you put high tension strings on your classical guitar, it will play badly if it was set up for medium tension. And, unlike an electric guitar, it is not simply a matter of a handful of adjustments to get it to where it plays well.
Virtually all acoustic guitar manufacturers make a classical model. Most are actually good. You can get a playable student guitar for very, very little money. The lower tension of the nylon string makes it possible to make a classical guitar out of less expensive, less dense woods. So, frankly, it's not as hard to make an acceptable classical guitar as it is to make a comparable steel string.
At the intermediate level, you can get good, playable guitars, and also get on-board electronics. I have such a setup for my guitar. I have found that the on-board transducer makes the strings sound very, very rubbery. An example is the guitar solo in Paul Young's "Every Time You Go Away". The strings sound very bouncy.
It's convenient, but for serious recording, you'd never go out the "wet jack" on your classical. So, a transducer system is of limited value. (Unless you get recruited for Paul Young's retirement tour or something.)
You can get a workable classical guitar made by manufacturers such as Takamine (they made mine.) As I said, virtually anybody who makes a good acoustic guitar manufactures a competent classical guitar.
For most folks who do not intend to be full-time classical musicians, these instruments will serve you well.
Is there a step up? A sort of Cadillac of the classical guitar?
The equivalent to, say, a Les Paul is a guitar called "Jose Ramirez". They'll set you back about as much as a Les Paul, but they are a cut above the mass factory-made stuff. There are other brand names, but that's the one most commonly associated with a high-line classical guitar. Andres Segovia played a few Ramirez guitars.
So, how should you chose it? Base it on price, sound and playability. You'll find that they aren't that expensive relative to other guitars. After that, let your hands and ears be your guide, and get the nicest one your pocketbook will allow.
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acoustics are a very personal choice
The Bottom Line Buy what makes you happy!
I have been mostly an electric guitar player for the last 25 years so if you want to hear from a true acoustic expert, I suggest looking at the article written by jmaroli. I just want to put my 'lectric spin on the matter. I used to think wood made a difference in tone in an electric guitar...until my two younger friends introduced me to their 7 foot amps that said, M...A...R...S...H...A...L...L.
Those amps could make a styrafoam guitar sound like a Les Paul or something good enough to give us a $235.00 noise ticket being just on the other side of a police department in a city that makes Dr. Laura look liberal. My next ticket will be over $1,500.00 if I get caught...fifteen bones, well that is what I consider the high end of buying an acoustic guitar.
High end acoustic:
This is the category that I call anything better than the standard Martin D-18, the basic good quality guitar which Elvis used to write his songs on. The tops of these high end guitars are made of solid spruce and the back and sides are of solid mahogany.
Guitars in this category are at least as big as the standard dreadnaught and sometimes bigger. Martin's high end guitars include the D-28, D-41, J-40, and the legendary D-45. Other guitars in the over fifteen hundred dollar category include Santa Cruz Guitars, Taylor Guitars, Lowden Guitars, Larrivee Guitars (not sure about spelling on that one), and Gibson Guitars.
Other woods found on high end instruments could be Koa, Indian rosewood, and Cedar...all solid and high grade. If you are lucky, you may even find an acoustic made with Brazilian rosewood but the last American who got a large amount of it was a guitar builder friend of mine who has a Brazilian wife and sells the wood to some of the above makers I mentioned.
A high end guitar that isn't played by a famous person or a one of a kind special custom shop instrument usually can go up to four or five thousand dollars. A non wood high end instrument which has low action and is the best for an electric cowboy like me is the Ovation guitar or Parker Fly guitar which are definitely high end.
When we got the noise ticket, my friend just wanted to toss his $600 dollar Fender Stratocaster out the window and take up being a librarian and use his well earned English degree from U.C. Davis. Six bones is what I call a good figure for a moderately priced acoustic guitar.
Mid-level acoustic:
A good starting point are the mahogany 00 and 000 Martins which are in that price range. Fender's high end acoustics, Ibanez high end acoustics, Yamaha high end acoustics, and Takemine high end acoustics dominate this range starting at six hundred to going up the fifteen hundred. This is the most common guitar which, while being acoustic, is often set up with a Fischman type saddle pickup and is electrified. More rockstars use these mid-level guitars than any other acoustic due to the amplification and cutaways often found in acoustics in this price range.
More often than not, only the top is solid spruce and the back and sides are laminated but there are exceptions out there to that rule. These guitars have necks which are just as good as the high end necks and have an acoustic sound just below that of a top of the line instrument. Many electric players like me cannot tell the difference between an all solid acoustic versus an acoustic with just a solid top. It is the loud and rich sounding solid spruce or cedar top that I pick up on.
My friend who got the noise ticket did not charge the other band members since he let in some teenage boys after practice and let them turn up the Marshall full stack to eleven, not ten...eleven. It must have shook the cops like Ted Nugent setting up in their washroom. My friend makes a small living and that $235.00 noise ticket is something he still brings up six years later. Nw $235.00 dollars would have bought a good low end acoustic.
Low end or beginner acoustic:
Martin has a low end acoustic under their brand name Sigma, Fender has a lot of offerings, Gibson has their Epiphone label, Ibanez has a few, and Yamaha has their share of the beginner market.
These guitars usually do not have cutaways, electronics, or any form of solid wood. The tops are spruce but laminated and the sides and back are laminated mahogany if you are lucky. The usual wood is nato or natto and laminated maple has been known to be used.
At one time, the action on these instruments used to be hideously high. But now due to computerized manufacturing, the action on these low end guitars are the same as one any guitar you will find in the store. Sitting down with a low end instrument is not bad since the volume is deep and rich.
It is when you stand five or ten feet away that one notices that the sound diminishes and there is little or no projection. This is due to having a laminated top.
If you have between two hundred to six hundred dollars and want a good low end guitar, don't go after the name on the headstock, go for an instrument that feels right which has a solid spruce or cedar top.
It is better to buy a three hundred dollar Epiphone on sale with a solid top than it is to buy an Epiphone at the same price with fancy binding and a deep cutaway. The solid top will improve with age greatly while a laminated top will only slightly improve over the years.
In defense of laminated tops, there were a lot of Takemine low end laminated top instruments made in the 70s and 80s which have aged extremely well and do sound like a good solid top guitar. So these suggestions are just very, very broad outlines.
And back to getting that solid top three hundred dollar Epiphone over that cutaway model with a laminated top. If you are a lead guitarist like I used to be, that cutaway is of the highest importance when playing beyond a high F#. It is just the solid top which will give you the better sound over time.
Conclusion:
So that is my electric guitar player's rough guide to buying a high end, mid-level, or inexpensive acoustic...and oh yeah, do not crank up a Marshall full stack next to a police department.
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More than Just a Name Brand...
The Bottom Line A good guitar is more than brand name and price tag.
Recently a friend of mine told me that she had bought her first guitar on eBay. I couldn't help wincing.
"You bought a guitar you hadn't tried out yet?" I asked.
"Yep! And it's blue!" She replied enthusiastically.
First of all, let me give you some background on things. I've been playing guitar for about sixteen years now. I also play trumpet, recorder, pennywhistle, mandolin, and assorted other instruments, and yes, I read music, write music, and know intermediate music theory. I perform as a folky singer/guitarist and get paid for it. My friends and family trust me when it comes to musical advice, especially when it comes to buying a guitar. And I like the color blue.
The reason I was horrified at my friend's confession is that I cannot understand how anyone can want to buy a guitar that he or she has not touched and held first. Okay, so it was her very first guitar and she liked the color. That's important, believe it or not, although not as important as the feel of a guitar. However, for a first instrument, she'll probably be fine (I hope). My first guitar was actually my mom's. It was sitting under my bed where she'd decided to store it a year or so after receiving it for a birthday present and finding she didn't have the time to learn. I was home one day and bored out of my skull, and I took the guitar out, pulled out a beginner book, and started teaching myself the basics. I eventually fell in love with electric guitars (I wanted to be Joan Jett when I grew up) but I never forgot my mom's guitar.
When I was twenty (seven years after learning to play guitar) I fell in love with acoustic guitars all over again, and so went out and bought my first acoustic (one that belonged to me, that is). A few years later, while helping a friend pick out a guitar, I found another guitar that I liked even better. I sold my old Yamaha to my friend, bought the new guitar, a Washburn, and played that one for the next several years.
So, you might be wondering, what does all of this have to do with choosing a guitar? I'm getting to that now. A lot of people put much stock in a name brand like Martin or Yamaha, and refuse to look at anything else. I think that putting too much in choosing a particular brand is silly and limiting. The best way to choose a guitar is to play a few. Even if you don't know more than one chord, just the feel and sound of a guitar can be enough of a reason to choose it. Take a long a friend who knows something about instruments but who will let you make your own decision so that you don't get ripped off and pay much more for a beginner-level instrument than you should.
Things to think about before buying a guitar
1)What's your playing level?
This is a really important thing to keep in mind. If you are a beginner, there's no need to go spend a thousand bucks on a really expensive guitar. Most people who decide that they want to learn how to play guitar give up after a few months and either stuff the instrument away in a closet or their kid's room, or sell it at a flea market or on eBay. I'd advise sticking to beginner model guitars--most music stores have several packages--and buying an inexpensive guitar that you like.
2)What are you using the guitar for?
Okay, let's say that you're no longer a beginner. Things to consider when picking out a guitar are whether or not you're going to play it amplified in some way or just by itself. Are you going to be performing with it or just writing songs on it? Are you going to be traveling with this guitar? As you consider these points, make sure you pick the right guitar for you. Try out your guitar unplugged and then miked. If it has a pick-up built in, plug it into the cheapest sound-system the music store has, and then try a few better systems. If you plan on hiking with your guitar, you might want to figure out weight and how bulky the instrument is going to be on your back.
3)How much do you want to spend?
Set a realistic price limit and stick to it. Most beginner guitar packages run under $200. Intermediate guitars go from $300-$900, but I'm very confident that you can find something pleasing for about $500. Once you get to professional/performance level, the sky's the limit. If you're just planning on playing local bars and shows, you can get by just fine with something under $1000, no problem.
Also, if you're just starting out, make sure you buy the right guitar for the right style of music. If you want to play folk or rock guitar, make sure you pick out a full-sized, full-sounding dreadnought guitar that can handle the style of music. If you want to learn classical, make sure you choose a smaller-bodied guitar that takes nylon strings. Talk to the store clerk as well, but again, unless you know and trust the clerk, bring a friend who knows more about guitars than you do. -
I'm in the store, now what?
Don't be afraid to try out many guitars. You aren't bothering the store clerk if you really plan on buying an instrument. Some stores will let you handle guitars on your own, but it's a good idea to check to make sure they don't require you to ask someone for help, first.
As you try out the guitars, there are a lot of factors to consider. How does the guitar feel? How about the neck?
Try pressing down on the strings with your fingers--if you know a little about guitars, you know that you are testing the "action" of the guitar, which is how much tension there is in the strings and how much pressure you need to put on them. This has to do with how far up off the neck the strings are, and can be adjusted. However, you don't want a guitar that starts out with very high action, you want something that approaches comfortable. As a beginner guitarist, playing is going to be a little painful, but keep in mind that you want the playing to get easier. If the action is too high, even when you build up finger callouses and muscles, it's going to be hard to play.
Does the guitar "fit?"
Guitars come in all sizes and shapes, and it's up to you to find one that suits you best. If you have your heart set on a full-sized dreadnought guitar, you're going to be dealing with a large instrument. I'm not a big person, standing at 5'4", and I have short arms. Also, being female, I have to consider how my chest and the guitar are going to interact. I play both standing up and sitting down, so it's nice to try out the guitar both ways. However, I've learned to deal with the full-sized guitar, and I bought an Ovation for performing with. Ovations are flatter-bodied instruments with rounded backs that are much easier on my shoulders and arms to play. I wrote a review about one particular model, and you should check it out.
How does the guitar sound?
This is where bringing a more experienced friend with you comes in handy. If you play at all well, you can get some idea for yourself how the instrument sounds, but it's hard to get a true idea when sitting behind the guitar. Listen to your friend or the clerk play it as well as listening to how it sounds from where you sit while you play it.
How do you like the look of the guitar?
Yes, as I said before, color and shape is important when picking a guitar, but really ought to be behind how the guitar sounds and plays. Still, you're the one who has to look at this instrument every day, and you want a piece that you can enjoy looking at as well as listening to. It's like picking a car--once you find the car that suits you best, you choose extras like color and A/C. The same with a guitar. Pick out a color that you like, and buy accessories to go with it that you really enjoy, like that plaid guitar strap you'd been eyeing.
Do ask about things like what material the guitar is made out of. Spruce is a good wood for a guitar, and you probably want to ask about whether or not it is a solid top or a solid body. Unless you are going for a real professional model, solid top is fine.
What about name brands, though?
You might be familiar with certain brands of guitar. For example, I have a real obsession with Martin guitars because my heros, the Indigo Girls, play Martins. Go ahead and try a guitar based on its reputation, but don't limit yourself to buying one simply because of brand name. For example, I'd never heard of Washburn guitars when I picked up the one I have now and started fooling around with it. It had an amazing sound, easy action, and was one of the most comfortable guitars I'd held. It left my little beginner Yamaha in the dust. I paid $325 for a guitar that lists at over $600, and have been told by a lot of people that in order to match the quality of this instrument with a new one, I'd have to spend close to $1000.
Higher prices don't automatically mean better, either. I recently had the chance to play around with a $1900 Martin and didn't like it at all. I picked up another Martin that was listed at $575 and was much happier with it. I also played a Takamine that cost a little bit more than the cheaper Martin and liked it much better than both guitars.
Take your time choosing a guitar, and pick one based on how you interact with it. Don't listen to scoffing friends who insist you just *have* to have such-and-such a brand or you're not playing a real guitar. Find the instrument right for you, and make it yours. -
A classical guitar is...
The Bottom Line A classical guitar is that slightly smaller cousin of the steel-stringed acoustic guitar, generally distinguished by the presence of nylon strings.
A classical guitar is a self-resonating six stringed instrument. It has nylon strings, no pickguard, no dot markers either on the fingerboard or on top of the fingerboard, and it is smaller, generally, than a comparable acoustic steel-stringed guitar. It has a shorter neck, but the neck is wider. It has no truss rod. Strings are attached by tying them at the bridge, and winding them onto a tuner at the head.
They are played by a player with a footstool, who places the body of the guitar on top of the knee corresponding to his fretting-hand. They are plucked without a plectrum, using the thumb and first three fingers of the player's non-fretting hand. A variation of this technique has been incorporated into country and folk playing as "Travis Picking". Classical guitarists shape their fingernails on their plucking hand to form tiny plectra, which are used to pluck the strings with a bright and sharp tone.
The classical guitar is generally played in such a manner that at least one melody line and one harmony line are played simultaneously by the same player. This is a virtuoso instrument, with an increasingly large catalog of music available for it.
It is a direct descendant of the lute, for which Bach composed some suites. The term "luthier", or "guitar craftsman" originated from the root word, "lute". Also, the mandolin, in all its forms, helped inspire many aspects of the guitar's design.
Classical guitars until the 1940s were strung with catgut which was difficult to tune, and impossible to keep in tune. The invention of nylon strings was a great improvement for the instrument.
A classical guitar is the fore-runner of all modern fretted guitars. A common guitar sometimes mistaken for a classical guitar is the flamenco guitar, which has a thinner body and strings that are closer together. -
What is an Acoustic Guitar and Answers to Other Questions that Plague You.
The Bottom Line An acoustic guitar is a type of instrument that not only sounds beautiful, but is also a ton of fun to play.
What is an acoustic guitar? The question almost sounds like a joke, although I’m not sure what the punch line is. Honestly, I don’t even know how to answer that question—an acoustic guitar is an acoustic guitar. It takes a genius to come up with things like that, believe me, but at least I can be of some service to you and answer questions delving around the issue of “acoustic guitars.”
First and foremost, a guitar is an instrument. Sure, it can be used for breaking things and cracking walnuts in half, but its original purpose was to make some sort of music. The guitar is a medium sized stringed instrument that is played by holding down the desired strings with one hand and plucking/strumming the strings on the other end with oneÂ’s other hand. As you press down on a string and pluck it with the other hand, a pitch will be emitted. The higher that you hold the string, the higher the note played will be. Typically, guitars have six strings which are tuned E, A, d, g, b, eÂ’ from top to bottom (or thickest density string to the thinnest). However, some specialized guitars will have up to 7, 8, or even 12 strings.
The word “acoustic” means that the instrument doesn’t use any sort of electronics to amplify its sound and thus relies on the internal vibrations (or acoustics) in the body of the guitar for sound. When a note is plucked, the string vibrates a certain frequency. As we know from physics class, different frequencies will cause various pitches to be heard. All of these notes vibrate and echo in the hollow body of the acoustic guitar in such a way that the sound is amplified. The big difference between acoustic and electric guitars is that an acoustic guitar has a body which amplifies the sound, while an electric guitar relies on electronics to amplify its sound (and thus is slim and does not have the body). Don’t get me wrong, there are more differences between electric and acoustic guitars than this, but that’s the “dumbed down” definition.
So what is the purpose of a guitar? Oh there are so many possible answers to this question. One person might say that the purpose of any instrument is to broaden oneÂ’s horizons and have a good time. Another person would say that the main purpose of a guitar is to receive fame and fortuneÂ… and get laid. Hell, some say that a guitarÂ’s best use is for smashing things, such as amplifiers and walnuts, in half. All in all, I would say that a guitarÂ’s purpose is to emit sound, which in turn produces some sort of enjoyment for the musician and anyone that dares to listen.
The guitar is an instrument that can be played in many ways and in millions of different styles. Thus, it is a very versatile instrument. Generally, the basic idea of playing the guitar is a lot like the piano. On the piano, oneÂ’s hands press down on the keyboard to play notes. The notes can be played alone one at a time or together in chords, or even in a combination of both (choral melodies). On the guitar, it is the same way in theory, with one exception; one hand presses down on the strings while the other hand hits the strings in order to make them vibrate.
One can hit the strings, causing them to vibrate, in many ways. One way is by plucking the strings with one’s fingers, which is usually referred to as “fingerstyle.” Another way is by using a little piece of plastic, which is typically in the shape of a rounded triangle, to pluck or strum the strings. Less widely used is an electronic device that sends out a pulse, which in turn caused the strings to vibrate-- a cool invention to say the least. Each of these different methods will sound differently, and thus fingerstyle is typically considered to be for classical music and bluegrass, while a pick is used for everything else, and the electronic device is rarely used at all.
As the guitar can emit many different sounds, it is used in a variety of styles of music. Ranging from classical, to jazz, to rock and roll, to blues, to soul, to bluegrass, to funk, to hardcore, to country, and show tunesÂ… the guitar is a very popular, yet greatly versatile instrument. Adding to its popularity, some of the most famous and widely acclaimed musicians in the last century were guitarists! Jimi Hendrix, John Lennon, Elvis Presley, Robert Johnson, Eddie Van Halen, Billy Corgan-- all famous guitarists who will live on in history.
Thus, that’s my simplest guide as to “what is an acoustic guitar.” Hopefully that has helped you learn a little bit about how a guitar works, how to play it, and why it is such a great instrument. If you have any comments about my article, feel free to add them or send me an email. So thank you very much for reading, I implore you to go out and get a guitar, as it is a great instrument. Thanks again and have a great day. -
Sparko's tips on caring for your guitar
Whether you are a professional musician or a person who likes to sit around the house and play, taking care of your guitar is very important. Guitar manufacturers today are taking great care in building their products, and they actually hand-pick different types of wood to craft an instrument which is visually appealing as well as providing a resonance that can be unique to the particular type of guitar. This is true of electric guitars, as well as acoustic guitars. My review will deal with the care of an electric guitar, but many of the points that I raise will apply to the acoustic guitar also.
A guitar player should maintain his instrument with two things in mind: first, to preserve the beauty that is inherent in a well-crafted guitar that was built from quality woods, and second, to keep the instrument in the best possible playing condition.
Here are my suggestions for caring for your guitar:
1. Clean and polish the top, sides and back of your guitar regularly. You can use a top-of-the line furniture polish to apply to your guitar, or your can buy any number of polishes offered by guitar companies specifically for the guitar application. If you establish a regular clean and polish regimen, your guitar will always look good. The beauty of the woods will be enhanced, and if you should ever decide to part with your guitar, it will bring a premium price because of your efforts.
2. Dress the frets every time you change strings. If you play often, a lot of dirt, grime and oils from your hands can build up on the fretboard. This isn't good for the strings and probably affects the sound also. I use a very soft-bristled toothbrush and a little soapy water, and I make sure to wipe the fret dry after cleaning. Use this routine when your change strings and your fretboard won't ever have that "soft" feel.
3. Wipe down the neck with a dry cloth after every use to protect your fretboard and to prolong string life. Sweat, oils, dirt and grime can accumulate very quickly, and if you wipe the fretboard frequently, you can make dressing the frets a much simpler task. You will also prolong string life by removing some of the elements that cause strings to deteriorate.
4. Never expose your instrument to excessive heat or cold for prolonged periods of time. Heat and sunlight can cause premature finish checking, and can make the finely-crafted woods in your guitar look old and faded almost overnight. Cold weather might not affect the finish so much, but it can cause damage to binding, inlays and the neck, often requiring unnecessary work with the truss rod. Guitars need a cool, dry environment, so try to keep your guitar in that type of setting.
5. Protect your guitar when it's stored in the case. I'm talking about humidity here, and it can be one of the most insidious enemies to the health of your guitar. You can buy a capsule from your local guitar store that will stabilize the humidity in the case; just put it in your case and it will provide the protection that you need.
6. Regularly check and tighten all screws, strap-pins and tuning machines. This just makes good sense, because you don't want any unneeded rattling or jingling when you're playing your instrument, either at a gig or at home for your own pleasure.
7. Make it a point to regularly clean all metal parts of your guitar with a good metal cleaning compound. Chrome and nickel are notorious for corrosion and tarnish, particularly in certain environments, so setting up a regimen to clean your pickup covers, bridge, and tuning buttons will help in maintaining the visual appeal of your instrument.
8. Avoid things that can cause scratches, dings and other scars on your instrument. Don't wear a belt with a buckle when you have your guitar strapped on; I have seen many beautiful vintage instruments which have been ruined by belt-buckle scratches on the back. Also, buy a stand! Never leave your guitar propped up against the wall or your amplifier--I've seen irreparable damage done to some quality instruments because they fell from being propped up. Spend the money and buy a stand--consider it an investment.
9. At least once a year, carry your instrument to your local guitar technician for a complete look-over. I don't set my own instruments up--my guitar tech here in Jackson, Tennessee, is Chuck McGill, owner of the Bandstand. Chuck knows exactly how I want my guitars to feel, and he does a fine job. No matter how well you take care of your instrument, the truss rod will need adjusting regularly, and the intonation screws on the pickups will need to be adjusted, to ensure that your are getting the balanced sound that you want from your guitar. Your guitar may need bridge adjustments also, so it's always good to take it in annually to let the expert make the fine adjustments that will give you the maximum in playability.
10. My last tip--PLAY YOUR GUITAR!!! There is no better way to keep your guitar in tip-top shape than to play it every day. I've put guitars up for years, in the case, and have always been dismayed to see how they "go down" from lack of use. Play your guitar, take care of it, and it will take care of you.
There you have it--my tips on caring for your guitar. If any of you have any other ideas I haven't addressed, please let me know--I'm always interested in the care and maintenance of these beautiful instruments -
Buying Your First Guitar, Electric VS Acoustic
The Bottom Line You really need to decide yourself, but I hope I made this guide useful for all of you who are in the market for a new guitar.
Yeah, I know this is the section for a buying guide for an acoustic/electric guitar, but it seemed like the correct place to put this guide, so here it is.
Well, you are ready to buy a guitar. You are already looking at the guitars on-line and at your favorite music store. But, the question still remains, acoustic or electric to start out on??? This is mind boggling to think about on your own, so here are some high (and low) points to both kinds of axes.
*ELECTRIC*
Once you decide what kind of music you want to play, and what your budget is (decide this before the music store jerks talk you into thousands in credit debt) and what your level of commitment, head over to your local music store. Many say that you will want to start out on an electric guitar for many reasons, here are a few I recognize when playing - Ease of play, electric guitars generally are easier to push the strings on the frets because the action is lower on most electric bridges. Range of styles, electric guitars can make many sounds and tones, from a warm rich acoustic like sound, to a harsh grunge sound. Many sounds can be created using only the guitar and a small practice amp (usually 50-100 dollars for a new practice amp). Range of accessories- You can upgrade a guitar much like a car. From nicer tuners to a nicer bridge to better pickups, you can do it all. And you can upgrade externally also. Pedals are made to make you sound like Hendrix or Clapton or Zappa, you can model and manufacture sounds and beats with pedals, but the can range in price from 60 dollars to 300 dollars for just the pedals.
Play- Electric, unlike acoustic, has a lower play as mentioned above. You won't need super strong hands to fret the strings, but keep in mind this will vary from model to model. You won't want to buy the cheapest guitar around, the music class I am in did that, and their off-brand axe won't suit anyone in the whole school, so make sure the guitars action suits you above all.
Sound- Every guitar player sounds a little different. And so does every guitar. You will need to take an expert or experienced player to help you get a guitar that matches your sound and play(don't let the music store guy be your expert, they would rather make a sale than help you 9 out of 10 times.). Again, look for what is comfortable for you to play.
Looks- This is number 3. It is not the most important factor by far. Don't judge and axe by it's blade, to alter a famous proverb. Make sure it has no flaws, such as cracks or chips, which could be a damper to your playing. But don't jump at the first sharp guitar you see.
Price- Electric guitars are generally about the same price as acoustic, maybe a little more. You will find a comparision guide that lists a good starter set-up for both acoustic and electric, with all the essential accessories to get you playing, and all the prices listed.
*ACOUSTIC*
Like I mentioned above, acoustic guitars usually have a higher action, which means beginners or small handed people will find it harder to play and be successful with an acoustic. But, don't let that stop you from making your first guitar an acoustic. Many great guitar players I know only use acoustic guitars for their pure, natural sound. Many think that electric are too easy to play, and with enough pedals you only need to know a few licks to play some impressing stuff. This is 100 percent true with BOTH kinds of guitars. Many of the greats repeat chords or scales to make good music, and that is fine. Just you need to know what kind of music you want to play.
Play- With a high action and a big body, small or young players will want to stick with a 3/4 scale acoustic, which is just a smaller version of the bigger guys. The action can be lowered, but this means hauling your axe to a professional and most likely having to shell out some small cash, but it is still a hassle.
Sound- Most acoustic guitars produce what is known as a "warm" tone. This can be described as a whisper by your girlfriend(warm tone) as opposed to a shriek from your gym teacher (cold, or sharp tone). I like to play a variety of tones, and an acoustic only has a few, which is a downside. You will find some exceptions, remember, I am talking in general here.
Looks- Acoustic guitars are some of the most attractive instruments in the world. Wood is much easier to look at than metal or painted materials, I love the natural looks of a good acoustic guitar. But, like with an electric, looks aren't the most important factors in guitar shopping.
Price- Some advanced acoustics run in the 6 - 10 thousand range, but you can find a good acoustic for about 150 bucks. This is less than the overall cost of an electric set up, but not as versitle. Please look at my additional information below...
ALL ACCESSORY BUYING GUIDE
(*ALL PRICES ARE FROM THE CURRENT MUSICIAN'S FRIEND CATALOG, WHICH FEATURES SOME OF THE LOWEST PRICES ON EQUIPMENT*)
Beginner Acoustic Set-up-
Squier SC-7 Acoustic Guitar- 129.99$
Gig Bag- 29.99$
Tuner- 19.99$
Strap- 9.99$
Strings- 6.99$
TOTAL- 196.95$
Beginner Electric Set-up-
Squier Bullet Electric Guitar- 99.99$
Fender Front Man 15 Combo Practice Amp- 79.99$
Tuner- 29.99$
Strap- 9.99$
Cable- 6.99$
Strings- 6.99$
Picks- 3.99$
TOTAL- 237.93$
(Note- Fender is the most highly revered electric and acoustic guitar manufacturer. They also make the Squier models, which look and play like real Fenders, but Squier guitars are made in Japan. It's like Epiphone is a cheaper Gibson.)
Well, I hope I have made your buying a new guitar a little easier on you, happy jamming!!! -
Things to consider when buying a 12 string guitar
The Bottom Line They are great and capable of great sounds.But choose wisely.Not just best price. Hope this helped.
I have been playing 12 string guitar since 1985. I bought a Guild 12 string,and have had fun since.
But for those of you who are just beginning to toy with the idea of buying a 12 string guitar , there are considerations. I will try to lend a helping hand here.
The first thing you should know about 12 string guitars is that they are a bit harder to play.They have a slightly wider neck,and require a bit more oomph to fret them. They are louder guitars,and usually sound fuller in tone due to doubling the amount of strings. They are tuned an octave apart,except for the first four strings. The E strings,and B strings are tuned in unison.
They have alot of stress on the top,and if you go with a cheaper priced 12 string you may experience braces letting go,and necks warping,and bridges pulling up.these are inherent problems associated with these. They are not perfect for every song either. A warp neck on a 12 string is very painful to play ! So do not go looking for the Cheapest 12 string out there. Go with the best you can buy. You will not be sorry.
You get what you pay for,and if you want a 12 string you need to pay attention to the brand. For a lower cost instrument I recommend Seagull Guitars. They are well built and reliable,and use quality materials.Handmade in Canada.
Of course Takamine,and Ovation,Taylor,Gibson,and Guild,as well as Martin are also great picks and the standard of excellence.There are other fine brands as well.
If you plan on doing any stage work whatsoever,get one with electronics in it right away.
Another thing about the 12 string (that has been a cause of controversy for years)is the tuning. If you are not going to use "odd tunings" but rather the standard G9 tuning,you may want to consider tuning down one full step . That way you lessen the tension on the neck and top.Just capo up 2 frets and you are at concert pitch.Saves on the finger strain too!And Even tho companies Like Guild claim their 12 strings can be tuned to pitch without a capo,I have found it to be a cause for concern.I personally do not recommend it,however you do what works for you. It is better to err on the side of caution in my mind.
Another thing that is an absolute must for 12 string owners is an electronic tuner ! It is maddening to try to tune one of these without a tuner!
But the sound of playing a 12 string is just fantastic. It is a rewarding experience when everything falls in place.
It can be flatpicked (ala Doc Watson)and strummed and fingerpicked. When fingerpicked,it produces some wonderful possibilities for exploration. It is also capable of evoking the softest feelings in a ballad , as well as major loud strumming and expressions in the noisy areas.
Alot of feeling can be projected through a 12 string. I use one as often as I can.
It is a bit of a time consumer when you re-string them , but when there are new strings on a 12 string it is amazing.
Good luck and enjoy . It is well worth the time invested in learning to get it right. -
What you should know about classical guitars
time for a little class...
The Bottom Line Necessary for those who want to study classical guitar. Unnecessary for the typical rock, jazz, blues, country player.
The year was 1987, and Rhandy Rhodes was long gone. However, before he passed away, he emphasized the importance of classical training to his unique sound. To this day, Randy Rhodes albums are classics that any metalhead must own. Too bad they've got some warbling fat repulsive wierdo singing and nearly ruining all the songs.
So, I signed up for "Applied Classical Guitar" in the music department of my college. I had basically taught myself to read music, and was ready, except I didn't own a classical guitar. HmmmÂ… time to go shopping.
A classical guitar is one of those slightly smaller jobbies with nylon strings. It is NOT an acoustic guitar in the popular sense of the word. Those are generally steel-stringed instruments. It does resonate on its own, though, and requires no amplification.
The strings are wider apart on a classical guitar. Also, the scale is shorter than you'd find on a normally proportioned electric or acoustic guitar.
Also, you'll find no dot markers on the neck or on the top of the neck binding.
Because the strings are nylon, the heavy bracing and stiffer materials of a steel-stringed acoustic are unnecessary. In fact, classical guitars have no truss rod in the neck at all. They simply do not face the same stresses as a steel-strung instrument.
There are high-tension classical strings such as Savarez. They produce a bright, excellent tone. However, because there are so few adjustments available on a classical, I've had limited success using them. They sound great, but they yank the neck forward and raise the action on the guitar too much. (Just like slapping a pair of .010 guage strings on your electric will do if it's been set up to play with .009s.)
So, that describes the instrument.
To play a classical guitar, you're going to need several things:
1. A footstool.
2. Long, manicured nails on the first 3 fingers of your right hand (left if you're a leftie.)
3. A strange wrist position.
With a classical guitar, you place the guitar body between your legs. So, for a right handed guitarist, the contour in the guitar body goes over your left leg. This is a playing position I've adopted for every guitar, now. It feels very cramped to have the guitar on my right thigh, even with an electric.
The strange wrist position is described this way: put your right hand straight out, so that your hand has the same angle as your forearm. Your fingers are pointing to "12 o'clock". Now, cock your wrist clockwise, until your fingers point halfway between 1 and 2 o'clock. You're ready to play classical guitar.
Why do this? Because then your "plucking" will then be perpendicular to the string.
Most rock, folk, etc. players don't do this wrist-cock when playing fingerstyle. They pluck the string at a slight angle.
So, is this a guitar everybody needs? Nah. Most rock players will have long and happy lives without ever touching one of these. Other than Willie Nelson, I've never seen anybody use one as a general purpose guitar.
There is one and only reason to get one: to study classical guitar with a classical guitar instructor. I assure you that if you do, you'll be playing your instrument in a way you never imagined was possible with a pick.
If you can, get some of the MCA CDs of Andres Segovia and ask yourself whether you find the music interesting or not. If you do, you can get those sounds with a classical guitar and classical instruction. -
All extracted from here
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Extra pop in......pop out....
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The neck: A closer look
Examine the neck of your guitar. You'll notice there are metal strips running across it's entire surface. These pieces of metal are referred to as "frets" on a guitar. Now, here's what you'll need to keep in mind: the word "fret" has two different meanings when used by guitarists. It can be used to describe:
The piece of metal itself
The space on the neck between one piece of metal and the next
To further explain, the area of the neck between the nut and the first strip of metal is referred to as the "first fret". The area on the neck between the first and second strip of metal is referred to as the "second fret". And so on...
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sibeh extra leh~!!Originally posted by Churra:Extra pop in......pop out.... -
Tuning the Guitar Correctly isn't as hard as you would have thought!
The Bottom Line Tuning a guitar isn't as hard as many people think, but it does take practice. The methods listed below will help you tune your instrument accurately.
The first time that you do an activity, no matter what it is, it is usually pretty difficult. Whether this activity is riding a bike or learning how to dance, the phrase “practice makes perfect” usually holds true as many activities become easier over time and with practice. Fitting into this category is the task of learning how to tune the guitar, as it can be somewhat difficult in the beginning but becomes a brainless activity (almost) after one masters learning how to do it correctly. So if you have ever wanted or needed to know how to tune the guitar, read on.
Firstly, let’s discuss what “in tune” means. The basic idea of being in tune is for a note to resonate at the same frequency as another. On a guitar, the tension of each string is what will change the frequency of the note. As the string is made tighter and the tension is increased, the string will create a faster frequency, which produces higher notes. When all of the strings on a guitar are tuned to particular frequencies, the notes will sound “correct” as the relationships between the pitches work in a sense. At other frequencies, however, the pitches will sound “bad” and dissonant.
To change the frequencies of the notes, one can do this a number of ways. By moving oneÂ’s finger up the neck of a guitar, the notes will become increasingly higher in pitch. You can also change the frequencies by moving the tuning pegs at the top of the headstock of a guitar. By moving the peg in one direction, the density of the string will decrease and in the other direction, the density will increase. To tune a guitar, one manipulates these pegs to get the desirable pitches.
One tuning for the guitar is accepted to be the best sounding and easiest to use. This tuning is considered “standard” or more specifically called “standard E.” In this tuning, the strings are tuned E, A, d, g, b, e’ from thickest to thinnest. When you put the guitar on your lap in the proper position, the thickest string in diameter should be closest to the ceiling. The strings of a guitar are often labeled 1-6, with the thickest string named “6.” There are many other tunings besides this standard one which are usually named depending on the chord that is produced from the open notes.
Now that we have determined how to literally change the pitches on a guitar and which notes are desirable, we can discuss the different methods of tuning a guitar. Personally, I think that the easiest method to tune a guitar is by using an electronic tuner. Most music stores will carry a number of different tuners, which will literally tell you if the note you are playing is sharp (above the desired pitch) or flat (below the pitch). What you do is play a note and let it ring, on the screen of the tuner will be a reading which tells you whether the note is sharp or flat. These tuners vary in price and can range from around $10 to $100, tuners also vary in the way that they work. Some tuners have a microphone and will pick up any note that is played while other tuners have a jack in which you plug a cable into (if itÂ’s electric). I have also read of tuners like this that are available to order online and use your computer, however I have not used one yet. One such program is available at dubbeldam.com. By far, I consider using an electric tuner to be the easiest way to tune a guitar.
Another way to tune the guitar is by using the notes that another instrument plays. The piano or pitch pipes are very easy to tune to, as you can play each note in its correct octave and tune to the perfect frequencies. So play an E pitch on an instrument and tune the low E string to that pitch. Then, you can either play an A and tune string 5 to it and so on.
You can use this last method to tune the full guitar by tuning a single note. After you tune the low E string on the guitar, you can use another method, which allows you to tune the rest of the strings. Place your finger behind the fifth fret of the 6th string. This will give you the tone of the 5th string (open). Repeat this on the next string to produce the pitch of the 4th string, and once again for the 3rd string. Next, place your finger behind the fourth fret of the 3rd string to get the pitch of the 2nd string. Finally, place your finger behind the fifth fret of the 2nd string to get the pitch for the final string.
There are electronic tuners online that are available for download which produce the desired pitches that you want and will play that note over the speakers hooked up to your computer. You can use the pitch to then tune your guitar by ear. One such program, Audio Phonics AP Tuner v. 1.02, is available for a free download on Cnet.com and works well enough. However, tuning by ear wonÂ’t produce an as accurate tuning as one done on an electronic tuner.
After you use one of these methods, you may want to play a chord that you know well in order to hear if all of the notes sound “correct” together. I usually use an open G chord (320003) and play each note one by one to hear if the notes are in the right relationship to each other. This is difficult for novices, but over time it becomes easier to hear if the notes are tuned to each other accurately or not. Just remember, practice makes perfect.
There you have it, a bunch of different methods that will help you tune your guitar depending on what is available to you. IÂ’ve said this many times throughout the editorial, but I personally feel that an electronic tuner is the easiest and most accurate way to tune the guitar. Others have opinions that differ, but this is just my take on the whole issue. So hopefully this helped you out and remember to have fun while playing your instrument. Thanks for reading and have a nice day. -
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no lah~ to help those who wanna buy a new guitarOriginally posted by Seacucumber:
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man this is a good guide.. lucky i had a guitar pro accompany me.. got a very nice takamine G series guitar. sounds good, plays good. heh
haha one more thing to add. if u buying guitar at yamaha, they will play in some soundproof room. the guitars sound nicer in there. and elec, they plug into some power speakers, so it sounds better.
better get a pro to go with u.
12 strings guitar dunno why i find easier to play.. but tuning it is like shit. haha
12 strings rocks. -
The strange wrist position is described this way: put your right hand straight out, so that your hand has the same angle as your forearm. Your fingers are pointing to "12 o'clock". Now, cock your wrist clockwise, until your fingers point halfway between 1 and 2 o'clock. You're ready to play classical guitar.
er... lost -
u gotta like twist ur wrist a little... so ur thumb is like infront more...Originally posted by dumbdumb!:er... lost
i dun do that... i've got bad technique... but i do notice i can control the notes and tones more if i follow the technique... -
ALL FINGERS SHOULD HAVE THE SAME CURVATURE AND THE FINGER TIPS SHOULD BE EVEN ON THE STRINGS (WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF FLESH AND NAIL CONTACTING EACH STRING)!
"In playing, the motion of plucking the strings should be all in the fingers not in the arm or palm! The right hand should not bounce with the movements of the fingers nor should the hand be moved up or away from the string during the fingers strokes by lifting the forearm or moving the wrist"
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/me gives kopiosatu some flowers
THANK YOU!
I KNOW I should've done this long ago.. but I guess I was sleepy when I was reading your thread...
I'm such a lousy mod 
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Hello peeps.. What an abundance of info provided by our erm, resident guitarist! Looky in hereeeee! -
wow! thanks for all those info... will read them when i'm free... hehe..
just started learning guitar... can't seem to be able to grasp it... esp the chords... think got to practise more... -
wheeeee.Originally posted by coolger03:wow! thanks for all those info... will read them when i'm free... hehe..
just started learning guitar... can't seem to be able to grasp it... esp the chords... think got to practise more...
go go coolger!
i'm going to learn soon too when i find a guitar
u learning urself?
